► Overview
Many common types of plumbing installed in homes built between the 1980s through the 2000s have been shown to quietly fail over time. While all plumbing materials need to be replaced eventually, these particular materials had a much shorter lifespan than expected. Most of these materials were eventually banned from being used when building new homes, but that does nothing for homes which still have them hidden behind their walls today. Unfortunately, these materials are now reaching the end of their lifespan and leading to widespread plumbing failures. The only way to fix this problem is by replacing the failure-prone pipes with modern, durable materials that will protect your home for decades to come. The process of replacing an entire home's plumbing is commonly called a "repipe."
Identifying Problematic Plumbing Materials
In most cases, you can visually examine your own plumbing to see what you have. If you have a crawl space or an attic, you should be able to see your plumbing there. If you have neither, you can try to examine under your sinks where small pieces of pipe will be stubbed through the wall and attached to a shut off valve (however, this pipe is often covered in paint).
There are several different variations of products that were used in our region. Most commonly, we find polybutylene, DuraPEX, CPVC or Grade B PEX. These pipes are generally easy to identify due to distinct characteristics. Below you will find images and descriptions of each of these materials to be on the look out for.
► The Main Culprits of Plumbing Failures
Polybutylene
Polybutylene has almost a purple color and is always marked with "PB2110", "Poly" or the full name. Poly is most notorious for being eaten from the inside by chlorine. The result over time are sections of pipe that have extremely thin walls that eventually crack or succumb to pit failures with little or no outward signs. Visually, everything will look perfectly fine... until it's not.
DuraPEX
DuraPEX is a unique shade of dark red, almost brown. It is commonly marked with other brand names like CPI or NIBCO. It is notorious for hot water lines quietly degrading and developing tiny, pin-hole leaks that often shoot a fine spray. It is almost always in walls, attics and locations that take time to become saturated before symptoms are visible. By then, mold has likely developed as has varying degrees of structural damage.
Grade "B" PEX
Grade B PEX is easily spotted by its vibrant reds and blues. Sadly, it is still being installed in new homes today despite being one of the lowest-quality options on the market. Unlike the premium, multi-layered PEX (used exclusively by Mike’s Master Plumbing!), Grade B PEX is made to be cheap—often from a single composite plastic that lacks critical protection layers. High-grade PEX includes internal layers that guard against a variety of corrosive chemicals along with a tough external UV layer.
CPVC
CPVC is a type of PVC typically found in smaller diameters. It often has a yellowish tint, almost as if it’s been sun-bleached, and is usually joined with a bright yellow or orange adhesive. The major drawback of CPVC is how brittle it becomes over time. Eventually the slightest force can cause it to crack or disintegrate inside the walls. This process is accelerated by high water temperatures and certain water compositions, which can shorten the material’s lifespan to as little as 10 to 15 years. Since plumbing systems naturally expand and contract with pressure changes (whenever water is turned on or off), pipes need a degree of flexibility. Brittle CPVC simply can’t handle that stress, making it a poor long-term choice.
► The Repipe Process
A whole-home repipe may seem like a big project, so knowing what to expect can make the process much easier. Here’s a simple overview of how we handle the job from start to finish while keeping your home protected and your experience as stress-free as possible:
► Access Holes
First, the plumbing network will be inspected to determine the best approach. Access entry holes will be made in ceilings or walls. All holes will be square, as small as possible, and in precise locations to ensure wall repair costs are minimized.
► Water Shut Off
The water supply will be shut off as ALL of your old pipe is removed*. If you opted for us to replace fixtures during this process, it would take place now. After the new network is fully installed, testing will be performed to ensure there are no leaks. Since this is a multi-day process, we understand families need water before work/school and are able to guarantee one bathroom stays functional throughout this process outside of work hours.
► New Primary Water Source
Each home is different on how this is accomplished, but in order to remove all of the old piping from your new network, that must also include putting in a new primary water source (from your main) that enters your home. Sometimes this may require digging to locate the existing main water line that enters into your home.
► Wall Repair & Clean Up
Finally, any drywall pieces we removed are re-attached by screwing in place. In some cases, drywall may need to be replaced as it can break when being removed no matter how great of care we take. Any messes we made will be cleaned. Please keep in mind that when drywall is cut, the dust is very fine. We recommend our customers do a thorough dusting after the project is completed.
* = Please note: When using the word "remove" in this context, we mean to "remove from the plumbing network." Not one inch of old pipe will be left to play any part in your new network. It is not always possible to physically remove all old pipe from the entirety of the home—especially when internally secured to studs behind drywall. Since water will not travel in these pipes, leaving them in walls cannot cause any issues at all.
